I find myself grappling with how to open this article, especially since many of my previous pieces commence with the introduction of a new distillery and its latest offering. However, allow me to deviate from the norm and delve into the intriguing tale of WD O’Connell, a bottler/blender that has long intrigued me and been around for some time….relatively. Until recently, circumstances had conspired against me, denying me the chance to experience their spirits first-hand. Nevertheless, destiny smiled upon me, presenting me with an extraordinary occasion to savour a selection of their whiskeys that have earned widespread acclaim as some of the best cask-managed, blended and subsequently bottled whiskies.

WD O’Connell owes its inception to the visionary spirit of Daithí O’Connell, a world-traveller who embarked on a journey of exploration, drawing inspiration from diverse corners of the globe before returning to his roots in County Waterford, Ireland. What sets them apart is their refreshing approach—they have chosen not to embark on the arduous task of constructing a distillery. Instead, they dedicate their efforts to sourcing and expertly blending the finest whiskies that Ireland has to offer, thereby showcasing their spirit of adventure.

In their quest for excellence, WD O’Connell seeks out the self-assessed “best spirits we can find”, skilfully managing and bottling them for whiskey enthusiasts. Daithí humbly refers to himself as a whiskey merchant, a title closely aligned with the time-honoured tradition of whiskey bonding, which originated in the 1800s. These revered bonders were, in essence, merchants who procured exceptional whiskies, aging them in their own barrels before presenting them to the world.

Their strategy entails an array of approaches, from incorporating peated whiskey to showcasing the distinctiveness of single grains, single pot stills, and single malts. There’s cask-strength sherry bombs and they even explore the realms beyond Irish shores, sourcing exceptional Scotch from the renowned distilleries of Islay. Through their commitment to diversity, WD O’Connell has swiftly garnered a well-deserved reputation as a fastidious merchant, renowned for their discerning eye when it comes to selecting outstanding whiskies. Their portfolio showcases an impressive variety that leaves no stone unturned, earning the admiration of whiskey admirers far and wide. This is why I am excited to try some WD O’Connell.

Beyond their dedication to whiskey, WD O’Connell holds steadfast to a set of cherished values close to their heart. The choice to establish their operation within ‘The Workhouse’ in Kilmacthomas, County Waterford carries profound significance, as it harks back to the haunting era of the Famine. By setting up shop in this historical landmark, WD O’Connell pays homage to the countless individuals who toiled within its walls during the tumultuous 19th century. Community lies at the core of their vision, as they strive to preserve the heritage of the area and honour the memory of those who endured poverty and hardship.

Sustainability is another paramount aspect embraced by WD O’Connell; whilst their aim is to be carbon neutral by next year, they have placed emphasis on a number of other incentives to coincide with this endeavour. Through their partnership with ‘Trees On The Land,’ they have embarked on a remarkable initiative, resulting in the planting of 2000 trees. For each case of whiskey sold, a native tree finds its roots in the soil—a testament to their commitment to environmental stewardship. This noble endeavour not only embodies their dedication to sustainability but also serves as a testament to the whiskey’s immense popularity, as evidenced by the significant number of trees taking root and thriving.

Anyway, on to the whiskies themselves.

12-year-old cask strength sherry series

This whiskey is a triple distilled Single Malt Irish Whiskey, distilled in December 2008, at Bushmills Distillery. It has been matured in a 2nd fill ex-Oloroso Butt with European oak for all 12 years. Limited to 350 50cl bottles.

ABV: 59.2%

Price: £126.95 available on WD O’Connell’s own webshop.

Nose: A real captivating display of dried fruit, where currants, raisins, and succulent sultanas take centre stage. This remarkable whiskey, delicately finished in sherry casks, leaves no room for disappointment. Its essence unveils a delightful undercurrent of sweetness, akin to a symphony of fudge and cherry fizzy sweets.

Palate: An explosion of spice with cinnamon and clove. This whiskey delivers an ample dosage of heat as a result. There’s an abundance of sweetness that emerges, reminiscent of fizzy cherry coke and the delectable Cadbury’s fruit and nut chocolate. There’s a subtle veil of stale smoke, which adds a remarkable depth to the overall palate.

Finish: Exquisite lingering finish, brimming with captivating warmth, complemented by hints of chocolate ginger snaps and an invigorating velvety espresso.

Score: 7/10

18-year-old cask strength PX series

This single malt whiskey was distilled at Cooley Distillery and initially matured in 1st fill bourbon barrels for 17 years. WD O’Connell then created a small batch and aged it for a further 13 months in a PX sherry cask. This is their first cask-strength whiskey from the PX range; a single cask release limited to 363 bottles.

ABV: 58.15%

Price: £126.95 but no longer available online.

Nose: This opens with a delightful cacophony of opulent aniseed and nostalgic cola bottles. As it unfolds, dried fruits emerge, with luscious cranberries and plump raisins taking centre stage. It continues with a wave of sweetness, reminiscent of Turkish delight and succulent ripened peaches, adding an extra layer of allure to this fascinating nose.

Palate: The texture of this whiskey captivates the entire palate. There’s an array of spices, with lively notes of cinnamon and a tantalising hint of black pepper. Amidst this, there’s a beautiful sweetness which emerges, akin to runny honey, expertly balanced with a subtle touch of smokiness. The depth and complexity of this whiskey reveal themselves gradually, as each layer unfolds in a bunch of flavours, it is fascinating.

Finish: More spiciness emerges, with notes of clove and an intensified presence of ginger, imparting a profound warmth and remarkable depth that seems to linger indefinitely. Amidst this barrage of spice, the presence of smooth caramel introduces a delightful sweetness, harmonising with the array of intricate notes that unfold.

Score: 8/10

Conclusion

I thought the 12-year-old was going to be decent, but this surpassed what I expected. While initially quite subtle on the nose, it quickly revealed its true character on the palate, delivering an impressive array of flavours that showcased both variety and depth. It effortlessly checked off all the boxes. I do, however, believe that the price may be slightly on the higher side. That said, considering the small-scale nature of the operation and the need to cover costs, this pricing can be understood and justified.

On the other hand, the 18-year-old expression took it to an entirely different level. Just when it seemed that the variety and depth of flavours were if such a high standard in the 12-year-old, this whiskey surprised and delighted with an even more pronounced and layered profile. With each second, new notes emerged. Bizarrely, despite the heightened quality and age of the whiskey, the price remained the same. This factor alone would make any whiskey fan appreciate the potential value for their money, as they would have the assurance of possibly receiving an even greater return in terms of flavour and enjoyment.

WD O’Connell is undeniably a quality whiskey brand, and the these whiskies merely scratch the surface of their repertoire. Whilst their web shop offers a few more expressions, it’s important to note that their releases are often in high demand and sell out quickly. This speaks volumes about the brand’s reputation and the quality they consistently deliver.

Daithí obviously possesses an impressive depth of knowledge in the whiskey industry, and his expertise in bonding is truly top-notch. The brand’s commitment to innovation is evident, as they constantly seek to redefine their methods and explore new avenues. The recent arrival of organic malt from Denmark and the promise of other exclusive bottlings indicates that there is much to anticipate in the future.

It’s certainly an exciting time to be a fan of this brand, and raising a glass of WD O’Connell is a fitting way to celebrate their exceptional craftsmanship and eagerly anticipate what lies ahead.