Belgrove

While Belgrove has received previous reviews on the Water of Life, particularly for their notable collaborations with Killowen, the profound influence of both Belgrove and Tasmania on the whisky scene cannot be overstated, with distilleries like Cooper King drawing inspiration from the success of Tasmania’s exquisite offerings. Belgrove stands as a true gem amidst the Hobart whisky landscape, boasting a range of whiskies that are unique, setting them apart from anything experienced in the UK.

I must admit that my introduction to Belgrove occurred when I was still a whiskey novice, and at the time, my drinking preferences were rather limited to the UK. However, as I discovered that some of my favourite distilleries drew inspiration from international sources, my perspective began to shift. It was then that I realised the need to embark on a personal journey of exploration. Belgrove, as previously mentioned, stands out for its unparalleled uniqueness and timely relevance. Remarkably, it is among the few whisky distilleries worldwide that take the entire production process into their own hands. From cultivating their own grains to malting, fermenting, distilling, and ageing in barrels, Belgrove’s commitment to their craft is truly exceptional.

 

In this era of heightened environmental consciousness, Belgrove stands out as a true pioneer leading the way towards sustainability. Peter Bignell, the brilliant mind behind Belgrove, proudly boasts about his impressive green credentials. His commitment to the environment is truly remarkable, as evidenced by the ingenious choices he has made in crafting his distillery. He has constructed his own copper pot still, which is fuelled by biofuel derived from used cooking oil, which is sourced from a nearby roadhouse. This biofuel not only powers the still but also fuels the tractor, forklift, and even the truck used in the distillery’s operations.

 

Now, here’s where it gets fascinating and surprising—Peter takes eco-friendliness to a whole new level by employing an innovative method in the production process. The spent mash, after being utilised for its intended purpose, becomes a meal for his sheep. And believe it or not, the sheep’s dung plays a role in the whiskey-making process. It is skilfully used as a smoking agent to infuse the whiskey with unique flavours, adding a touch of unconventional creativity to the entire operation. The ingenious use of sheep dung as a smoking agent may initially catch you off guard, but it showcases the lengths to which Peter Bignell and Belgrove go in their pursuit of sustainability. And whilst it may not seem like a problem, peat is slowing starting to run out – this is certainly the case for the peatlands in Scotland, therefore Peter solves a very real-life problem here.

 

The fame and acclaim of Belgrove have spread far and wide, and it’s no surprise that many still fondly remember the episode titled “Untamed Tasmania” from the renowned Gordon Ramsay’s ‘Uncharted’ series. In this episode, Gordon took on the task of shovelling sheep dung amidst the picturesque setting of Belgrove. However, it is intriguing to note that this particular moment, while entertaining, merely added to the already surging tide of success that Belgrove was experiencing.

 

ABV: 45%

Price: £69, good luck trying to find it though, Belgrove don’t ship to the UK!

 

Nose: The nose exhibits intriguing complexity, unveiling a delightful array of subtle spices, including hints of star anise and a touch of clove. Its woody character is reminiscent of a blend between freshly cut cedar and damp bark, adding depth to the experience. Abundant notes of cinnamon sugar and zesty ginger enliven the senses, gracefully complemented by a gentle nuance of furniture polish.

 

Palate: The first sip reveals a delightful touch of sweetness, accompanied by a gentle honey kick and the essence of Madagascan vanilla. There is a subtle hint of black pepper which adds a touch of complexity, balancing effortlessly with the savoury notes of roast chicken crisps. The captivating smoke evokes a blissful sensation akin to enjoying a cherry-flavoured cigar amidst a serene pasture adorned with sheep. Phenol notes emerge beautifully, showcasing a well-balanced and exquisite character, neither sickly nor overwhelming, but rather perfectly attuned.

Finish: A sweet lingering smoke dominates the palate while retaining its overall character. The finish carries a faintly medicinal note reminiscent of antiseptic, adding a subtle yet beautiful dimension.

Laying my cards on the table, I honestly believed that this would be somewhat gimmicky, resembling the ‘Kopi luwak’ coffee you find in Vietnam. The truth, however, is that this is genuinely an exceptional interpretation of rye whiskey. It encompasses the classic rye notes throughout, abundant in spice, boasting bold flavours of pepper and sweet honey. Yet, the phenol notes from the sheep dung truly delve into a remarkable depth. There’s an authentic ‘earthiness’ to it, with the smoke notes exquisitely refined – not overwhelming, but meticulously considered.

 

What we have here is not solely a high-quality whiskey; it stands as an exemplar of sustainability with innovation at its core. I do wonder what prompted Peter Bignell to gaze upon this mound of sheep dung and conceive the thought, “I could utilise this.” While others might veer away from being ‘green’ long before this point, Peter and Belgrove have elevated sustainability to a whole new level. The fact that this has wielded such a substantial impact on the overall taste and flavour of the whiskey is nothing short of remarkable.

 

Regarding Belgrove, I am eagerly anticipating my visit in October – the days cannot come soon enough. I am eager to delve deeper into their environmentally conscious practices and ascertain the extent of their endeavours. One thing remains certain: Belgrove’s innovation is truly extraordinary, and what’s more, they are fostering inspiration in the next generation. Names like Killowen and Cooper King come to mind, and undoubtedly, there are many more following suit.

 

Score: 7.5/10

 

 

---