Regrettably, my visits to Dublin have not been as frequent as my whiskey-blogging heart desires. Therefore, embarking on a journey to Ireland’s capital city this past weekend was a prospect brimming with anticipation. Amid the treasure trove of distilleries and the storehouse, a single purpose resonated within me: a pilgrimage to Bar 1661, a bar christened in honour of poitín’s re-emergence. This establishment, a brainchild of the visionary Dave Mulligan, a figure widely regarded as the mastermind behind the poitín renaissance, held an irresistible allure.

To provide some context to this particular visit, a fellow contributor to the Water of Life, Jonathon Ramirez, extended an invitation. He asked whether I would be interested in joining the judging panel for the Irish Whiskey Awards, an event orchestrated by the Celtic Whiskey Shop. Without a moment’s hesitation, I embraced this opportunity wholeheartedly. Within a tight timeframe, the task at hand encompassed scoring an array of 52 whiskies, indulging in lunch, and carving out a scant couple of hours before departing the city. These precious hours allowed me to check off an item from my whiskey bucket list: Bar 1661.

Earning the well-deserved title of Ireland’s Best Bar 2022, they eloquently define their appeal as “Unwaveringly Irish and fiercely independent.” Their objective is twofold: to acquaint the global community with poitín and to elevate the landscape of Irish mixology to unprecedented echelons. This straightforward yet impactful approach is as distinct as it is captivating. The name Dave Mulligan might ring a bell; he was mentioned in this contributor’s review of Bán Poitín, one of the pioneering spirits in the poitín resurgence.

The upheaval caused by the pandemic took a toll on the hospitality industry, affecting bars and restaurants alike, including Bar 1661. Admirably, Dave remained steadfast in his commitment to sustain the bar’s operations while temporarily setting Bán aside. Today, I’m delighted to report that the establishment and the spirit are on an upward trajectory, demonstrating tremendous resilience. Excitingly, news of a forthcoming release of Bán adds to the anticipation.

Returning to the journey, a group of seven of us were promptly attended to upon arrival and well taken care of. The option of the snug within the bar proved to be an ideal ambience for savouring a selection of cocktails. Yet, this cocktail selection goes beyond the ordinary; it’s a compilation of 32 drinks that chronicle the evolution of alcohol over the past three centuries. Notably, each cocktail on this menu is beautifully presented, enhancing the experience.

In all honesty, I didn’t take too long on my choice of cocktail; it was an instinctive decision – the Belfast Coffee, the signature concoction of Bar 1661. Just as the other offerings on the menu, each cocktail is a reinterpretation of a classic cocktail, with the Belfast Coffee offering a unique twist on the renowned Irish Coffee. What sets it apart is the use of poitín in place of whiskey and cold brew coffee instead of hot coffee.

I keenly observed the actions of Dave George Taylor, the head bartender, as he effortlessly crafted six Belfast Coffees. His finesse, dedication, and profound knowledge were truly commendable. With every step he executed, he shared insights, guiding us through the process. It was evident that Dave possessed an intimate mastery of his craft. His amiable demeanour, enlightening commentary, and evident passion were a testament to his genuine love for what he does. Now, turning to the Belfast Coffee itself, it was a true delight. The inclusion of cold brew coffee gave it a surprisingly transformative influence, mitigating the inherent bitterness of hot coffee and lending a heightened refinement to the overall flavour profile. Paired with the presence of poitín, the cocktail achieved an unparalleled level of deliciousness.

Truth be told, the coffee did not last long, and rather than wait for my friends to finish their drinks, I decided to go to the bar itself and have a look among the various selection of poitíns and whiskies. The collection is really brilliant; you’ll likely not find a poitín missing from this bar. I was surprised even to see King’s County’s controversial poitín on the shelf too. Equally as surprising was the presence of the ‘new’ Old Comber, the only bar in Ireland to have it. This new blend, a mixture of grain and pot still was a joy to taste. Whilst I was staring lovingly at the collection, Dave was on hand again to give advice, insight and great craic.

Upon my return to the table, a sense of disappointment washed over me as I discovered that my friends had already embarked on their second round of cocktails! Determinedly, I set my sights on the task of selecting my next drink. Given the opportunity to witness its creation at the bar, my decision was essentially a foregone conclusion. The ‘Black Gate,’ a take on the humble Guinness, had already piqued my interest. Comprising elements of Mad March Hare poitín, rum, roasted dandelion, tonka, bitters, Tokaji wine, Guinness, and a luscious burnt sugar cream, this cocktail’s taste rivalled its visual appeal. As I watched Dave craft it, I found myself utterly captivated – his artistry truly knows no bounds, and I must emphasise my profound admiration for him. The cocktail embodied a masterful balance between bitterness and sweetness, with the addition of Guinness-infused cream proving to be an absolute delight.

With a mere half-hour remaining before I reluctantly had to depart, I was faced with a pivotal choice – one last cocktail to savour. The decision weighed heavily on me, for each cocktail presented on the menu was just so appealing. My friends flanked me, each advocating for their own preferred cocktail. Jonathon commended ‘The Gibney,’ a fusion of Redbreast 12, rum, pineapple, black cardamom, aromatised wine, and oloroso, while another friend vouched for ‘The Libertarian,’ an amalgamation of Dunville’s Peated, rye, sour cherry, dark chocolate, aromatised wine, bitters, and preserved lemon.

Nevertheless, my decision was made. Only one option truly rested with me – the Belfast Coffee. I am not overexaggerating when I say it, but this was unequivocally one of the most exceptional cocktails I’ve ever had. The combination of factors – the ambience, the staff’s expertise, and the bar’s historical significance – seamlessly augmented the whole visit, rendering it nothing short of remarkable.

With some reluctance, I left Bar 1661, my encounter encompassing three excellent cocktails, and a sense of longing already settling in. The consolation lies in Dave Mulligan’s alternative endeavour, ‘Craft Cocktails,’ where meticulously curated pre-mixed concoctions crafted by the bar’s adept bartenders can be purchased. If you want the Belfast coffee mixture, all that is required is some cream to float on the top with a sprinkling of nutmeg. Regrettably, this stock is currently sold out, a testament to the overwhelming demand for Bán (as previously mentioned).

As for myself, I’m inclined to dismiss the notion that I’ve successfully checked this off my bucket list, as the pull of returning calls for a revisit, an invitation I extend to you as well. The experience on offer at Bar 1661 is unequivocally exceptional and comprehensive, warranting a return visit. Poitín Now would be as good a time as any…