Not everything happens as planned, does it? In the midst of my two-week trip in Australia, my initial intention was to embark on a Tasmanian adventure and relish the offerings of renowned distilleries like Belgrove and Old Kempton. Alas, this dream remained unfulfilled due to an array of logistical hurdles. However, serendipity has a way of shining through when you take a closer look at your immediate surroundings. That’s precisely what transpired during my stay in New South Wales.

Disheartened by the shelved plans for a Tasmanian trip, I decided to roll the dice. I found solace in the idea of visiting Tara Distillery, conveniently situated just a short 25-minute car ride to the north of where I was staying. The prospect of witnessing a couple of pot stills up close seemed enticing enough to make the trip worthwhile. Little did I know that my decision would lead to an unexpected story of a fantastic little distillery.

I pulled into the Tara Distillery completely unannounced – no tickets, no contact, nothing – just a spontaneous decision. As I stepped out of the car, Benno, one of the co-founders of Tara, greeted me with a warm and welcoming wave, typical of New South Wales hospitality, and inquired if I was there for a tasting. I humbly explained that I wasn’t, taking a moment to recount the serendipitous reasons behind my impromptu visit.

Despite the bustling preparations for an upcoming hen party tasting scheduled for 11 o’clock, Benno graciously extended his hospitality. He generously shared the captivating tale of Tara Distillery, and to my surprise, delved into the intriguing Irish influences that permeated the distillery’s techniques and practices.

Indeed, the historical connection between Australia and Ireland runs deep, their shared colonial ties binding them to the British Empire until they each gained independence. The movement of over 300,000 Irish settlers to Australia was driven by a desire to escape the hardships and poverty of their homeland. Even today, more than 2 million Australian citizens proudly claim Irish ancestry as a part of their cultural heritage.

This enduring connection invokes the iconic lines from the song “The Fields of Athenry,” which resonate even more strongly with Ireland competing in the Rugby World Cup. The song tells the story of a fictional character exiled to Australia after committing the desperate act of stealing food for his starving family. It encapsulates the historical reality of prisoners being transported to the distant shores of Australia on grim prison ships, as poignantly described in the lines: “As that prison ship sailed out against the sky, for she lived in hope and prayed for her love in Botany Bay.” These verses serve as a poignant reminder of the enduring ties that bind the two nations and their shared history of struggle, resilience, and renewal.

The enduring link between Australia and Ireland becomes even more captivating when we consider the personal journey of Benno and his wife, Alarna Doherty. Benno’s path led him to work and reside in Galway, Ireland, where serendipity played its hand as he crossed paths with his future wife. During his time in Ireland, he was immersed in the rich tapestry of Irish whiskey, culture, and heritage. It was here that the seeds of inspiration were sown, planting the idea for him and Alarna to venture into the world of spirits.

Upon returning to Australia, this enterprising duo hatched their plans, their dreams nurtured by the experiences and knowledge gained during their time in Ireland. Their commitment to the craft was undeniable, as they even embarked on journeys back to Ireland for training, learning from revered institutions like the Midleton distillery, a name synonymous with Irish whiskey. This dedication to honing their craft while drawing from the wellspring of Irish whiskey traditions underscores their passion and determination to bring something exceptional to the world of spirits.

Like most fledgling distilleries with a primary focus on crafting whiskey, Tara Distillery had to embark on an evolutionary journey, initially creating a range of spirits to sustain their enterprise. As I observed Benno passionately showcasing Tara’s array of spirits, which encompassed four types of gin, vodka, and even a coffee liqueur, one bottle in particular piqued my interest. You see, my pre-visit research had revealed that Tara had delved into the production of poitín, and intriguingly, they boldly bore the name of this traditional Irish spirit.

What made this discovery all the more captivating was the historical context of the Cambewarra Ranges, which loom over Tara Distillery. Dating back to 1882, these ranges had acquired notoriety for housing illicit whiskey stills. I couldn’t help but wonder if this was a tradition brought over from Ireland, and in fact, it’s worth noting that Australia’s first inland distillery had emerged in 1828, founded by the resourceful ex-convict, Japheth White.

Newspaper accounts from that era recounted the valiant efforts of law enforcement officers as they trudged along treacherous mountain tracks in pursuit of these elusive stills. The apprehension of these rogue distillers in the local Nowra Court elicited a sense of melancholy among the locals. The spirit produced in these regions became renowned throughout the colony, with illegal shipments regularly departing from the bustling towns of Berry and Bomaderry.

Sadly, those days have faded into the annals of history, much like the pre-legalisation era of poitín. For many years, the Cambewarra Ranges lay dormant, devoid of both whiskey and copper stills. However, Tara Distillery stands as a torchbearer, committed and honoured to resurrect this 140-year-old tradition of distilling in Shoalhaven. In a nod to this enduring tradition and their Irish culture and heritage, Tara takes pride in unveiling the first legally produced Australian Poitín, a testament to their commitment to both history and innovation.

An incredible story; however, let us deal with the elephant in the room: is this actually poitín? Well, incredibly, Australia has no technical file that governs what they can or cannot call whiskey, so, yes it technically is. Whilst it isn’t produced in Ireland, I love this story, I love the heritage and I love the history behind it, and I’d be honoured for them to call it poitín….but is it actually any good?

Tara Distillery ‘Exile’ Poitín

All New South Wales grain: malted barley, unmalted barley and oats, all milled, mashed & fermented on site. Triple distilled in Tara’s traditional copper pot stills, the Exile Poitín is then hand bottled straight from the still.

Price: £44

ABV: 50%

Nose: There’s a beautifully complexity of aniseed, saltiness and liquorice. However, there’s also a lovely, sweet note, there’s some freshness of green apple skin, lemon zest and green banana peel.

Palate: The palate feels so complex, initially the sweetness comes through again, but there’s a beautiful warmth generated, amidst beautiful notes of black pepper, chocolate ginger snaps and spiced apple drizzled in cinnamon sugar.

Finish: More of the heat, and a real lingering lemon freshness, versus the green apple sharpness. It’s warm and very comforting.

Summary

What a delightful experience this has been. To begin, I’m deeply appreciative of Benno’s warm welcome, accommodating my unannounced visit. Furthermore, I found great satisfaction in immersing myself in the rich history of Tara Distillery and the accompanying tapestry of Irish heritage. Some may argue that I’m pushing the boundaries by suggesting Poitín should be exclusively Irish, but I was genuinely captivated by this expression.

This isn’t the work of an amateur; it’s the result of a passionate individual who has been deeply influenced by the culture and traditions of Ireland. Crafted in a landscape shaped profoundly by Ireland’s history, why shouldn’t it be called Poitín? In the end, it may bear the name “Australian Poitín,” but it represents a valiant endeavour to recreate one of our oldest spirits.

And as for the poitín, it truly is a remarkable spirit in all senses, meticulously crafted with profound thought and care. It’s created with the noblest of intentions and boasts a robust 50% ABV, positioning it as a noteworthy contender in the realm of poitín. Regrettably, Benno had none available on-site for purchase, citing its immense popularity. It appears that I now have another reason to pay a return visit to Tara Distillery…

Score: 7/10