Amidst the rolling hills of Mulroy Bay, the rugged landscape of Campbeltown and the quintessence of the Cotswolds, a debate as old as the Water of Life itself rages on; the concept of terroir. For centuries, distillers and enthusiasts alike have contemplated whether the land from which the grains are harvested, the water that trickles through limestone-rich streams, and the microclimates that envelop whiskey barrels truly impart a certain character to the spirit. We’ve been eagerly awaiting the right moment to delve into this article, and the time has finally arrived to explore the world of terroir.

Let’s clarify this right from the start: terroir is far from a novel concept. In fact, it’s a notion borrowed from the world of wine. It’s a term that encompasses the essence of the land and the intricate interplay of natural elements, such as soil composition, sunlight exposure, and the climate.

Over centuries, French winemakers honed and developed the concept of terroir by scrutinising the nuances in wines originating from distinct regions, vineyards, or even different segments of the same vineyard. While many perceive it as an entirely organic phenomenon, it’s worth noting that human factors can also exert an influence on the flavour profiles of both wine and whiskey with regards to ‘terroir’. For instance, the choice of which grain variety to cultivate is a critical decision, as some varieties flourish more vibrantly in particular locales compared to others. Another fascinating aspect is the use of wild or ambient yeast in the fermentation process (check out the Killowen Triail), as opposed to the more controlled cultured or laboratory-produced yeast. This choice can be viewed as a direct reflection of terroir, infusing unique characteristics into the final product. So terroir encompasses a whole range of elements, not just nature.

However, the terrain gets a bit rocky (pun intended) when we delve into the contentious topic of oak or different wood types. Some fanatically advocate that their usage enhances and highlights the inherent terroir characteristics, while others argue that it has the potential to overshadow and mask the subtleties of the terroir’s influence.

So these ‘differences’ that terroir makes, surely they’re just subtle? Perhaps not as one might initially presume. A study led by Oregon State University and Waterford Distillery has found that terroir, the environmental conditions such as soil, weather, and habitat, does indeed have a significant impact on the flavour of whisky. Published in the scientific journal Foods and driven by Waterford Distillery, the research involved an international team of academics and examined two barley varieties grown in different environments in Ireland over two years. The study revealed more than 42 flavour compounds, with half of them directly influenced by the barley’s terroir. This suggests that whisky flavour, like wine, can be region-specific, potentially leading to region-specific whiskies similar to wine’s appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) system.

It will be no surprise that Mark Reynier, known for his involvement with Bruichladdich and, more recently, his venture with Waterford Distillery, has enthusiastically embraced the concept of terroir and was the driver behind the above study. He not only believes in terroir but has also managed to cultivate a dedicated following of enthusiasts who share his passion. This transition into the world of terroir-driven whisky production was a natural one for Reynier, given his initial background in the wine industry. His journey into whisky was, in many ways, a seamless transition, as the principles of terroir that he championed in winemaking found a new and exciting application in the realm of whiskey.

Taking an entirely objective stance, the fundamental purpose of Waterford Distillery is to exemplify the concept of terroir through their range of bottles. Each and every one of their whiskies serves as a distinct embodiment of an individual farm, showcasing the uniqueness of terroir, therefore it’s clear why they would take the lead on such a study.

What I think is truly intriguing is the concept of nostalgic terroir, which almost has a psychological quality. Andrew Jefford, in his eloquent write-up for Decanter magazine, beautifully articulated the essence of wine, stating that “Place forms the core of wine’s beauty, leaving its quiet print on every wine, even the most modest… though never more memorably than when distinguished sites and well-adapted varieties combine with limpid winemaking. When I think about my work, I think about places.”

Right, so that’s the facts, here is my opinion; terroir in whiskey production has become a bit of a trendy marketing tool, which can often be used to evoke a sense of authenticity and uniqueness rather than expression. However, I would argue that this marketing approach can sometimes be more about perception than reality. Distilleries may highlight their geographical location, the uniqueness of their water source, or the specific strains of barley they use to create an image of exclusivity. While these factors may indeed have some influence on the final product, they are just one piece of the whiskey-making puzzle. The danger lies in overstating the role of terroir in shaping flavour and character, potentially obscuring the importance of distillation techniques, aging, and blending expertise. In this sense, terroir can be seen as a marketing gimmick that may not always accurately represent the complexity of whiskey production.

Here comes Baoilleach, ushering in a new realm of terroir, one that’s unlike any other. It’s the embodiment of authentic, fervent, and intimately romantic small-scale terroir. We spoke to Michael of Baoilleach, in which his passion for whiskey making and even farming came through.  He has just released Grán na hÁite which embodies “untamed flavour of the Land around the distillery”. Grán na hÁite, the inaugural local grain distillate from Baoilleach Distillery, represents the harvest of 2022, marking a significant milestone in their journey. If you want a landscape that is truly different, then look no further than Mulroy Bay, it’s rugged, and peaty, where grain yields may be modest, but looking at the concept of terroir, the depth of flavour should be intriguing.

Interestingly, the grains, spanning 7.5 acres for the 2022 Harvest, included 3 acres of Barley, 3 acres of Oats, 1 acre of Distillery barley, and 1/2 acre of Rye (though the latter was eaten by the local deer…). Despite the uncommonly fair summer weather, the grain yields fell short of expectations, a trend seen across Donegal, and Ireland for that matter. In Michael’s humble little corner by the Atlantic coast, barley yields ranged from 1 to 2.5 tons per acre, significantly lower than the 3+ tons per acre in Munster. Yet, the hope is that this lower yield is more than compensated by the unique and rich flavours it should impart.

The total mash bill for Grán na hÁite – Harvest 2022 consisted of approximately 4.5 tons of Barley and 3 Tons of Oats, undergoing 23 mashes and 26 distillations. Double distilled over two months in April and May 2023, 25% of the mash bill featured on-site malted barley, processed in small batches throughout the distillation period, resulting in an expected production of 1500 – 1800L of spirit.

Baoilleach Distillery – Grán na hÁite

ABV: 62.3%

Price: £49.00

Nose: There’s those big characteristic Baoilleach notes as you would suspect. There’s a clear German rye bread note which interplays with the strong menthol, not unlike Olbas oil and even peppermint. There’s a zesty note too, orange peel and even grapefruit like. Quite earthy as well, notes of wet hay coming through.

Palate: Big. Punchy. Flavours. The spice is just so varied and flavoursome, there’s peppermint in abundance, a little star anise and certainly some aniseed too, you could honestly pick any spice and envisage it on your palate here. There’s so much heat too, which seems bizarre without the signature peat smoke style finish. There’s a real beautiful sweetness too, boiled sweets and more orange oil and zest. Lots of black pepper too, you could chew through this spirit.

Finish: again, such warmth is generated fantastically. There’s just lots more spice, cinnamon and clove this time round. There are the remnants of pepper left with a drop of honey to finish.

Conclusion

This is just so Baoilleach, with the big and bold punchy flavours, the characteristically sweet notes that you get from his new-make. While there’s no denying the influence of terroir in this release, it somewhat belies the true significance of Michael’s craftsmanship. His meticulous fermentation and expert distillation are just two of the exceptional facets of his production that have intricately moulded the essence and subtleties of this unique spirit.

The impressiveness behind this release I believe is found within the mash bill and the addition of green barley, a grain renown for producing complex flavours and profiles. It’s truly remarkable how Michael manages to extract an astonishing array of flavours from it, especially considering it hasn’t undergone the aging process in wood, a stage often credited with imparting whiskey’s character and most of its flavour. This indeed presents the challenge: establishing the precise contribution of flavour from the grains, the soil, the climate, and distinguishing it from the influence of the fermentation and distillation methods.

I just can’t imagine how good this spirit could be with 3 years in some wood…

Don’t get me wrong, this article doesn’t aim to contest the existence of terroir – scientific studies indeed affirm its presence. Rather, it questions the extent to which terroir truly shapes whiskey when considered in conjunction with a myriad of other contributing elements.

Score: 7/10