Another week brings yet another Irish whiskey review, this time introducing a brand that may not have crossed your radar until now. It’s easy to overlook the fact that Garden County quietly toiled for 7-8 years, meticulously honing their craft and overcoming the challenges of learning, planning, fundraising, and even navigating through the trials of a pandemic before finally making their presence known. But now is their time; their release of a 7-year-old Single grain single cask whiskey is about to make things interesting.

The name “Garden County” pays homage to the roots of the dynamic father-son duo, Michael and Gavin Clifford, who hail from Wicklow, often referred to as the “Garden County” of Ireland. This charming region, nestled amidst Ireland’s majestic peaks and serene waters, has long been a haven for renowned whiskey distilleries like Powerscourt and Glendalough. Yet, what truly sets Garden County apart is the rich tapestry of myth and the captivating historical aura that shrouds this beautiful place.

At the heart of this captivating narrative lies Wicklow’s very own mischievous spirit, known to the locals as the “púca.” This age-old legend, which delighted in perplexing unsuspecting residents with playful antics, now finds its eternal home gracing the front of their distillery crest and adorning each of their bottles. These whimsical tales not only entertain but also pique curiosity, serving as a constant reminder of the fascination that is woven into the fabric of Irish whiskey and what you’re savouring with each sip.

As you’ve likely surmised from the timeline, Garden County’s whiskey is what we call a “sourced” spirit (GND), as detailed in Mike’s informative article (linked here). However, this should not be misconstrued as their long-term strategy. Having established their reputation with award-winning gins, their distillery has been meticulously crafted to become a hub for crafting and distilling pot still Irish whiskey, a vision they hold dear as the catalyst for growth within the global Irish whiskey market. Their impressive distillery boasts three majestic 1000L copper pot stills, each meticulously designed to distill a 2000L wash, with the ultimate goal of providing a second distillation to create double-distilled, mixed-mash-bill pot still whiskey.

Presenting their oldest release to date, this 7-year-old Single Grain Single Cask whiskey has yielded a mere 577 bottles, each bearing a 51.3% ABV, with only 400 of these bottles available in Ireland. The whiskey’s journey began in December 2015 when it was distilled and then initially matured in ex-bourbon barrels. In October 2020, it embarked on a new chapter as it was transitioned into 500L Oloroso sherry butts. Today, this spirit boasts over 7.5 years of maturation, with more than 2.5 years gracefully spent in the embrace of the sherry cask.

During the re-casking process, Garden County made a unique choice by transferring the contents of two ex-Bourbon barrels into the new sherry butt. Seizing the opportunity to explore the impact of lower ABV spirit over several years, they introduced cutting water, culminating in the final ABV of 51.3%.

Garden County 7-year-old Grain whiskey

Price: €70 available from IrishMalts from 10am on Friday 17th November 23

ABV: 51.3%

Nose: very subdued nose, lots of biscuity type notes with lashings of honey. Also some honeydew melon.

Palate: thankfully the palate kicks up a notch or two! Lots of spice finally, sherry cask showing its worth with the typical cinnamon and clove notes interspersed with some spicy vanilla. There’s plenty more honey-based notes, almost honey nut cheerio like. Some strong citrusy notes coming through towards the end too.

Finish: a nice touch of pepper with some foam bananas in there too. A little more citrus with some orange peel for good measure.

Conclusion

When categorising Irish whiskies, they seem to fall into distinct tiers: the lacklustre, the middling, the above-average, and the exceptional. In the realm of this particular whiskey, it comfortably resides in the category of “above average.” While this might initially sound like a tepid assessment, there’s a bit more to it.

Admittedly, the nose presents itself as somewhat underwhelming. However, my initial reservations were pleasantly dispelled as the palate unfolded, revealing a notable improvement and showcasing some rather commendable flavours. In an era where grain whiskies are gaining widespread acclaim, this particular expression stands as a stellar testament to their rising popularity. Credit is undoubtedly due to Gavin and Michael, who absolutely know their way around a barrel.

While the bourbon maturation is undeniably evident, I found myself yearning for a tad more influence from the sherry cask, hoping for that extra kick to elevate it. The flavour profile, unfortunately, leaned towards the one-dimensional side, lacking the more diverse range of flavours I was anticipating.

Yet, where the grain took centre stage, it did so with precision. The character, distinctly prickly with a peppery heat, almost biscuity like, was good. The bourbon maturation, true to form, showcased the anticipated honey and vanilla goodness, contributing to a well-rounded palette of flavours.

This whiskey offers excellent value for the money. As a product of a family-run business, its unique charm is further accentuated by being a single cask, single grain plus boasting an impressive ABV exceeding 50%. What’s even more appealing is the price point, comfortably under £70. In essence, it’s a great combination of craftsmanship, individuality, and affordability—making it a delightful purchase for any whiskey enthusiast.

Score: 5.5/10

Disclosure: the sample that informed this article was provided to the Water of Life team by Garden County free of charge. Garden County has not had any other input into this article, nor has the Water of Life team relinquished any editorial control