What better way to kick off 2024 than with a bang? We’re diving into the year with a review of the latest offering from Baoilleach Distillery – the Cratur (Jasper), the second release in Michael’s Exploration series of noteworthy poitín. The initial Cratur garnered high praise from the Water of Life team. Now, the big question is: can this sequel meet the lofty standards set by its predecessor?

Michael established the Exploration series at Baoilleach with the aim of delving into the authentic origins of poitín, paying homage to its legacy, and unravelling its story through distinct narratives in each release. Batch 2 serves as a tribute to the Poitín Makers who resisted the Customs men, notably Jasper Barry in the Mevagh parish and Carrigart area.

Jasper Barry became a member of the Revenue Police in the RIC in 1831, and his final testimony on Donegal poitín in 1853 revealed that the 1100 RIC men in Donegal were assigned to eradicate Donegal poitín. Established in 1819, the revenue police had a specific mandate to halt poitín production, requiring them to embark on excursions four times a week from midnight to six a.m. The demands on their efforts persisted, with the force remaining as active in 1853 as when it was first founded.

By 1853, Jasper Barry had risen to the position of Head Revenue Police Inspector for the Carrigart detachment. Although records from 1819 indicated 130 poitín makers in the parish, this number might have fluctuated over time, yet the continued presence of the revenue force attested to its necessity by 1853.

As you may recall, a previous review underscored the importance of certain social media groups, where members often initiate a variety of releases. The ‘Friends of Irish Whiskey’ (FOIW) Facebook group has once again demonstrated their unwavering commitment to providing each member with the opportunity to explore the diverse world of Irish whiskey and poitín. Notably, this release was democratically chosen by the members themselves, with a specific focus on determining the mash bill. Following 152 votes, the FOIW community has decided on a mash comprising 30% oats, 6% spelt, 20% maize, and 44% malted barley.

During our interview with Michael O’Boyle of Baoilleach last year, both Mike and I were captivated by his unwavering commitment to innovation, particularly in the creation of new and captivating whiskies. This mash bill exemplifies that commitment. Interestingly, alternative mash bills featured components such as beechwood-smoked barley and green barley. However, the FOIW group, with a decisive 30% majority vote, opted for the unconventional – a choice I also supported. To me, this choice reflects a genuine resemblance to how poitín might have been crafted in the 1800s. The inclusion of spelt and maize could very well have been some of the most prevalent ingredients used in the production of poitín during that era.

Baoilleach Distillery FOIW Exclusive Cratur (Jasper)

Price: £46 (available from Baoilleach webshop)

ABV: 61.1%

Nose: this is now becoming a stereotypical start for Baoilleach and the prominent sweetness shines through immediately. It’s reminiscent of a crumbly toffee fudge and sweet caramel sauce. Of course, you get an indication of the spice that is about to drop with a subtle ginger note, a little like Jamaica cake, or even Kendal mint cake initially coming through; one of those ones that I’m seriously craving to get to my lips.

Palate: wow, a massive spicy uppercut to the face. If you didn’t know you’re drinking Baoilleach, you do now. There’s obviously a lot of spice which comes through, with a healthy dose of cinnamon and clove throughout, with the Jamaica cake accentuated more with a little more oats this time. There’s also quite an earthy, wet soil and bark note which comes through too, it’s almost a little medicinal too, which then accumulates with a hefty splattering of peppermint, possibly a little solventy too.

Finish: if the palate wasn’t enough for you, the finish highlights more of the same powerful spice notes, including some raw ginger, more menthol than peppermint and the introduction of some subtle turmeric and pepper notes round it off.

Summary

If this is indeed a glimpse into what poitín was like in the past, I’d be ready to time travel immediately. What’s increasingly apparent as a hallmark of Baoilleach Distillery and their “small pot, big flavours” mantra is truly striking. The fascinating aspect lies in Michael’s ability to extract so much flavour from such an unconventional mash bill, all without the influence of wood. It’s genuinely captivating.

It’s intriguing to explore spelt in a whiskey’s mash bill – a novelty for me as well. I’d imagine it lends significant earthy and oaty qualities to the spirit. In discussions with Michael about the dram, he mentioned that while it’s enjoyable, if given the chance to remake it, he’d omit the spelt, decrease the oat content, and increase the corn proportion in the mash. His aim? Potentially smoothing out some of the sharper solvent and menthol notes, perhaps creating a mellower profile. Would this still align with Baoilleach’s “small pot, big flavours” ethos? Likely so. One thing’s certain: Michael would undoubtedly extract every possible note from any mash bill at his disposal.

What I find particularly great about this bottling is the rich history it carries. While ‘The Year of Poitín’ may have somewhat receded, these releases serve as a poignant reminder of its enduring importance and significance in Irish culture. Michael’s storytelling evokes a sense of nostalgia and cultural connection, akin to the resonance one might feel when Morgan Freeman narrates ‘Life on Earth’ on Netflix. It’s as if there’s no one more fitting than Michael to recount this narrative.

Score: 6.5/10

Disclosure: the bottle that informed this article was provided to the Water of Life team by Baoilleach free of charge. Baoilleach has not had any other input into this article, nor has the Water of Life team relinquished any editorial control