At The Water Of Life, we like to explore the offerings of new distilleries. The introductions to these reviews are relatively easy to write, normally starting with little bit of context on the state of the industry, people driving change, and how we’re excited to see their passion deliver results. I was putting together some similar words for this article when I had a shock realisation: at 19 years old, Kilchoman can’t really be classed in this new generation anymore.

I first started getting into whisky about the same time Kilchoman’s inaugural release hit the market, back in 2009. They were probably the first new (rather than reopened) distillery that I followed, and this is how I still picture them. However, two things have happened since then which mean that Kilchoman can no longer be seen as the new kid on the Islay block. Firstly, Ardnahoe, situated on the other side of the island, has finally released its first whisky. Secondly, Kilchoman whiskies have continually received critical acclaim and earned them an absolute tower of awards.

With this in mind, when I nipped into the excellent Luvians on my recent return to the UK, I found myself powerless to resist the call of Kilchoman’s 2024 edition Sauternes Cask Matured whisky. This is the third time Kilchoman has released a notoriously tricky Sauternes cask edition. Notably, this isn’t a finish: the spirit has spent its entire maturation in a mix of first fill and refill Sauternes casks. 

Kilchoman Sauternes Cask Matured 2024 Edition

Islay Single Malt Whisky

50% ABV; matured in 22% fresh and 78% refill Sauternes casks

Released without an age statement, although Kilchoman have confirmed that the youngest casks incorporated were from 2018.

Non-chill-filtered; no added colouring

£80 (The Whisky Exchange – or at Luvians, although apparently not currently on their website!)

Nose: Sweetness and fruitiness come across through apricot, nectarine, raspberry and honey. Smoke and peat accompany these, but do not overpower them, with hints of burnt butterscotch and charred hay. There is a maritime saltiness as well as a touch of spice, especially crystallised ginger, chili powder, and paprika.

Palate: The initial hit is ginger chunks in syrup. There is a butterscotch sweetness that matches the thick texture excellently, as well as a delightful fruitiness, with mango, papaya, dried pineapple, and vanilla. Peat, smoke, and spice slowly build to their warm crescendo of burnt pineapple, pepper and paprika.

Finish: Smoked paprika, honey, and peat smoke – a delightful full finish.

Opinion: Choosing to complete the whisky’s whole maturation in Sauternes casks was a significant risk. Many other distilleries offer Sauternes finishes, but very few offer a dram that has only been exposed to Sauternes wood. I’m happy to say it has paid off with a great complexity and depth of flavour. Although this is unmistakably an Islay whisky, it has a surprising lightness and fruitiness to match its peat smoke and sea air. That’s not to say it’s insubstantial: the 50% ABV makes itself known through the lingering, warm finish, delighting the palate long after the dram has been swallowed.

If you like peated whiskies and sweet wine casks, this is absolutely the dram for you. These two elements are difficult to combine, but I can happily report that Kilchoman has managed to strike an excellent balance.

8/10