“Don’t call it a comeback—I’ve been here for years.” LL Cool J’s famous words from Mama Said Knock You Out weren’t about grain whiskey, but they might as well have been. For too long, grain whiskey has been the underdog of the whiskey world—dismissed, overlooked, and underestimated. But much like LL’s track, it’s here to prove the doubters wrong. While some whiskey purists may turn up their noses, grain whiskey packs a punch that demands recognition. It’s time to give it the respect it deserves.

Like many whiskey enthusiasts, I was once guilty of overlooking grain whiskey. My journey began with single malts and pot still whiskies, but as prices soared, I turned to blends as a more affordable alternative. My real introduction to grain whiskey, however, came through the Two Stacks Time Well Spent box set, which featured a stunning example of the style—a 2009 cask-strength single grain whiskey straight from Cooley Distillery. That dram was a game-changer, proving that grain whiskey has far more to offer than it’s often given credit for.

Grain whiskey has long been the unsung hero of the whiskey world, dating back to the early 19th century when Aeneas Coffey revolutionised whiskey production with his continuous still. This allowed for a lighter spirit compared to traditional pot still distillation, making grain whiskey the backbone of blended Scotch. Grain whiskey has long been sidelined, perceived as lighter, less complex, and primarily a blending component rather than a spirit to be enjoyed on its own. Many whiskey lovers instinctively gravitate toward single malts, believing them to be superior in depth and character. But this bias overlooks the unique qualities that grain whiskey brings to the table.

Made from grains such as corn, wheat, or rye and distilled mostly in continuous stills, grain whiskey tends to have a lighter, sweeter profile. When well-aged, it can develop remarkable richness. Not to mention, its affordability compared to single malts makes it an accessible option for whiskey drinkers looking to explore something new without breaking the bank.

Once dismissed as a mere blending component, grain whiskey is finally getting the recognition it deserves. Distilleries are pushing the boundaries with high-quality single grain releases, innovative cask maturations, and bold cask-strength expressions that rival traditional single malts. Its lighter, versatile profile provides a canvas for creativity, while extended aging unlocks layers of depth and complexity. With whiskey prices on the rise and a growing appreciation for alternative styles, grain whiskey is no longer just a supporting act.

As the whiskey world evolves, more enthusiasts are starting to appreciate the craftsmanship behind high-quality grain expressions. I’ve long championed Two Stacks, and for good reason—their mastery of cask management is outstanding, allowing them to unlock the full potential of every whiskey they touch, which is exactly what they’re doing with grain whiskies.

In my opinion, every whiskey has the ability to deliver exceptional flavours, but two key factors (amongst many others) determine its success: the precision of the distillation process and the careful selection and management of the casks it matures in. This is exactly where Two Stacks excels as bonders.

So, what do we have here? Well, Donal was kind enough to reach out and ask me to review their latest Single Pot Still release (tough job, but someone’s got to do it, right?). But tucked away in the care package was something truly special—a sample of a 22-year-old grain whiskey matured in a Madeira cask. This had previously spent 20 years in a bourbon cask, with a further 20 months in a Henriques & Henriques Madeira cask.

This particular whiskey was recently released at the beginning of the month and is set to become an exclusive bottling for Christy’s Bar in Kilkenny, having previously opted for a Single Malt release back in 2022. For those unfamiliar, Two Stacks has been making waves with their exclusive bar releases, most of which sell out very fast. They reserve only special whiskies for these limited editions, making this sample an absolute privilege to try. In fact, even Donal himself hadn’t tasted it yet at the time of sending it, making this a genuine exclusive review for the WOL!

So let’s delve in and see what’s what!

Two Stacks 22-Year-Old Single Grain, Christy’s Bar Exclusive

Price: €145

ABV: 56%

Nose: Lots of sweetness initially with sherbet and penny toffee chews. There’s also an interesting subtle smokiness, like smokey bacon crisps, slightly salty and with a hint of damp firewood too. There’s an additional hit of honey and vanilla with butterscotch. Then it’s the fruits turn; definite dried raisins, unripened plums and sweet figs too. All topped off with a dose of menthol.

Palate: Firstly, an incredible texture, really viscous and syrupy, unlike a single grain. Again, there’s more beautiful sweetness, with boiled sweets, honey and vanilla coming to the fore again, this time with a hint of salty chocolate. This time around, its more spice rather than menthol, nutmeg and cinnamon, and a little peppery too. The layers of this liquid is wild, you could pick out a new note every time.

Finish: The finish is where it lacks a little, but there’s lots of cola cubes and Madagascan vanilla throughout. All finished with peppermint and clove. Brilliant.

Summary

Wow. This is something truly special. This whiskey has redefined grain whiskey for me once again, elevating it to another level. The depth and complexity here are remarkable.

Right from the nose, the sweetness takes centre stage, as expected, with the Madeira cask playing a significant role. But alongside that, there’s a beautiful savoury undertone—a subtle smokiness interwoven with rich wood notes, followed by an intriguing herbal hint. The layers unfold beautifully, and we’re only just getting started.

Then comes the palate, and it hits hard. First, the texture—silky and mouth-coatinhen an initial burst of sweetness, quickly followed by warming spice and more of those intriguing savoury elements. You might expect these bold flavours to compete with each other, but that’s where Two Stacks’ craftsmanship shines. Their ability to balance and refine a whiskey’s character is on full display here. Each element—sweet, spicy, smoky, and herbal—is expertly intertwined, enhancing rather than overpowering one another.

This is grain whiskey at its finest in complexity, balance, and cask influence.

As for the grain itself, the richness is beautiful. After 22 years of ageing, it has developed remarkable depth and character. I can only imagine how vibrant the sweet notes must have been before it met the Madeira cask. While I would have loved the chance to taste it in its original form, there’s no doubt that the secondary maturation has elevated it further, adding layers of richness and nuance.

As for Two Stacks, their releases are starting to heat up. While they haven’t unleashed a flurry of new whiskies—aside from the previously mentioned pot still expression—it’s clear they’re playing the long game. And much like LL Cool J declared, “Over the competition, I’m towering,” Two Stacks is steadily positioning itself as a standout player in the industry.

With whispers of a second edition of Pillars of Creation making the rounds, anticipation is building. If their past releases are any indication, this next chapter promises to be something truly special. Two Stacks isn’t just keeping up—they’re setting the pace.

Score: 8/10

Disclosure: the sample that informed this article was provided to the Water of Life team by Two Stacks free of charge. Two Stacks has not had any other input into this article, nor has the Water of Life team relinquished any editorial control.