Festival season remains to be upon us, and whilst all such whiskey defined events are over, Poitín Now, will celebrate its second birthday, with no doubt another releases or two to celebrate the momentous occasion. However, I have three offerings to delve into this time around: one of Brendan’s first poitíns released, the Poitín released for Poitín Now’s first birthday, and secondly, Killowen’s much heralded Port cask finish, a whiskey many people were calling whiskey of the year….in July.

Killowen is certainly no stranger to The Water of Life, and if you’ve been following Brendan’s journey, you’ll likely recognise his impressive portfolio, including the Triail series, Bulcan, and the Rum and Raisin releases. However, Brendan is far from complacent, and his unwavering passion for creating and sharing exceptional whiskey continues to drive him forward.

Recently, much of Brendan’s carefully aged stock has surpassed the 3-year-old threshold, officially becoming Irish whiskey. It’s been an exciting and anticipatory experience as we’ve witnessed the release of an increasing number of Barantuils from his collection. Notably, some of these releases have been exclusive private casks, while others have made their way into the core lineup, offering the Kult a diverse and delightful array of choices. Brendan’s commitment to crafting outstanding whiskey is truly commendable, and the journey continues with each new expression.

Behind the scenes, there’s a lot of exciting developments unfolding as well. Brendan has taken a bold step forward by expanding his business, acquiring and installing a new pot still. This significant upgrade is poised to increase his production output, a welcomed addition not just for Killowen but also for the dedicated fans of the Kult, a whiskey-loving group capped at one thousand members due to its overpopularity.

However, it’s become evident that the releases of poitín have become scarcer. While the Triail was essentially a poitín release, it only served to further ignite the Kult’s desire for that once-illicit spirit. This sentiment recently had me thinking about last week when I was persuaded by my fellow Water of Life contributor, Jonathon, to seize the opportunity of Poitín Now tickets becoming available. We both decided to mark the occasion with a glass of Poitín. Jonathon chose to celebrate with a Mulroy Bay, an excellent choice. In my case, I opted for a bottle I had been carefully hiding away for fear it would run out, and I’d never have the pleasure of experiencing its unique flavour profile again.

Indeed, I’m referring to Stone Soup. For those who might not be familiar, Brendan introduced us to the concept of Stone Soup during Belfast Whiskey Week in 2021, which was held virtually at the time. The response to this concept was so overwhelming that he followed up with a release of over 250 bottles due to its immense popularity.

For those unfamiliar with the story of Stone Soup, it’s a tale that explores the essence of happiness and the significance of sharing, especially with strangers. In this story, three monks stumble upon a village in the mountains that is plagued by famine and conflict. The villagers are initially wary and hide in their homes out of fear. However, the monks set out to make “stone soup” with nothing more than water and three round stones. As they begin to cook their soup, the monks persuade the villagers, one by one, to contribute to the dish by sharing their spices, vegetables, and other ingredients. Together, they create a lavish feast for the monks, who in turn discover the true meaning of happiness through their shared experience.

This story is deeply relevant and resonates profoundly with what Brendan is currently doing. Just as the monks in the story brought happiness to the village by sharing and collaboration, Brendan is creating a sense of joy and community through his whiskey creations, fostering a sense of togetherness among enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. It beautifully illustrates the power of shared passion and the ability to transform something simple into something extraordinary, much like the magic that happens in a bottle of Killowen.

Following the success of Stone Soup, Brendan continued to impress with subsequent releases, and one that stands out is ‘Faoi Dhráiocht.’ This expression was yet another experiment, showcasing what Brendan’s distillate could achieve when matured in Irish Oak for just 8 days.

Additionally, the latest Killowen release, KDC#202, received widespread acclaim and rightfully so. Renowned figures in the whiskey world, such as Barry Chandler of ‘Stories and Sips,’ were quick to highlight the ingenuity, craftsmanship, and undeniable quality of this release. I wholeheartedly share in this sentiment.

Exploring the realm of Port finishes, we’ve found that they can be challenging to fully unlock their potential flavours and depth. While Jonathon found Redbreast’s Tawny Port finish slightly underwhelming, he certainly rated the Liberator’s Port offerings highly. KDC#202, under Brendan’s cask stewardship, promises to harness the full potential of a Port finish. If you’re a fan of transparency, this release has you covered. The presentation box includes a leaflet with all the whiskey details you could desire and more, showcasing Killowen’s commitment to providing enthusiasts with a complete understanding of their whiskey.

Stone Soup 10-Week-Old PX Barrel Rested Poitín Pre-release Cask Strength.

This particular expression is crafted from a traditional mash bill featuring turf-smoked grain which has been matured in PX sherry wood casks. To add an extra layer of character and intrigue, Brendan incorporates a Mourne granite stone into the aging process—a thoughtful touch that mirrors his mission to bring joy to a diverse community of whiskey enthusiasts, just like the monks in the tale of Stone Soup.

Cost: Unavailable for sale now, but be prepared to be over €100 at auction.

ABV: 55%

Nose: Initially, there’s a beautiful note of marzipan, which then intertwines with a serious medley of fruit notes. There’s a real cacophony of sweetness with some light fruit, peaches and pears, zesty limes, green applies and red berries. There’s also some more spice, a little like aniseed. Then there’s a chuck of a digestive biscuit.

Palate: Plums, liquorice and dark chocolate, some pepper in there with some star anise.

Finish: Warmth, peppery and slightly fiery. long and warming once again, I’d expect the ABV to be around 58% for that burn. More black pepper and ginger.

Score: 7.5/10

Killowen ‘Faoi Dhráiocht’ Poitín now exclusive

Cost: Unavailable for sale now, but be prepared to be over €50 at auction.

ABV: 55%

Nose: There’s a clear significant influence of wood, specifically damp and musty. There’s a beautiful sweetness which comes through clear on the nose with gelatine giant strawberries and sour lemon candies. Typical Brendan note now, with peppermint being exemplified throughout but also intertwined with some subtle notes of smoke and cinnamon sugar.

Palate: This texture is something else, lots of cream, viscosity and lusciousness. The smoke is really prominent at this point and comes through beautifully, but more towards the back-end of the palate. There’s a clear citrusy note too, with lime zest being the most recognisable.

Finish: A beautiful finish with lots more warmth generated through the spice. There’s just enough time for the cinnamon lozenges and aniseed to come through and give it a last hurrah.

Score: 7.5/10

Killowen Distillery Exclusive Bottling Cask KDC#202 – Peated Tawny Port Finish

Cost:

ABV: 56.05%

Nose:  An absolute symphony of flavours which starts with sweet rhubarb crumble. There’s an abundance of succulent berries which combines with vibrant notes of dried cranberries and redcurrants. Amidst this, there’s a delicate wisp of an old sweet smoke, cutting through the layers of sweetness, akin to cherry Tobacco on a gust of smokey wind. There is also a subtle hint of zesty lemon rind which adds a refreshing twist, lending a sprightly note to the overall profile of the nose.

Palate: A remarkable smokiness picks up from the nose. Initially, a gentle touch of fruit beckons, intertwining with succulent blackberries and the embrace of smokey alcoholic ocean spray cranberry juice. Yet, it is the presence of sweet, lingering tobacco and its accompanying smoke that takes centre stage, balancing it effortlessly. As if the complexity wasn’t enough, there’s a subtle hint of black pepper that weaves its way into the mix, adding to an intriguing and profoundly complex character. The texture is so oily and viscous, like chewing through sweet incense.

Finish: The enduring presence of pepper accompanies chilli dark chocolate which adds to the velvety texture from the palate. A touch of cinnamon emerges, igniting a comforting warmth that permeates the palate and warms the cockles of the heart.

Score: 8/10

Summary

This line-up of spirits is truly special and has not only stirred up my anticipation for Poitín Now but has also reignited my passion for Poitín in general. I can’t quite put my finger on it—whether it’s the scarcity of Poitín releases, the abundance of new whiskey offerings, or simply taking a break from it—but revisiting Stone Soup has rekindled my enthusiasm. Brendan consistently pushes the boundaries with Poitín, never content to simply “play it cool.” He dares to venture beyond, creating spirits that are not only thought-provoking and awe-inspiring but also delicious, and this is no exception.

Starting with Stone Soup, it’s an absolute delight. This dram strikes the perfect balance between sweetness and spice, leaning slightly toward the spicier side, which is incredibly appealing. The notes of liquorice and star anise, among the myriad of flavours, are personal favourites, and the warmth it exudes is truly impressive. It’s a testament to Brendan’s commitment to crafting spirits that are not just enjoyable but also memorable and evocative.

The ‘Faoi Dhráiocht’ certainly stands out with its distinct texture, and it’s evident that the wood has left a profound impact on the poitín, rendering it exceptionally silky. It manages to maintain that captivating allure that Poitín is known for, with its delightful earthy notes and a pleasing hint of prickliness. It’s truly a fitting choice to celebrate the first birthday of Poitín Now.

As for the Port cask finish, it’s truly incredible. To receive accolades as “whiskey of the year” with six months still remaining in the year is quite the achievement. As of my current writing in October, it remains at the top of my charts anyway, though Polaris 1.3 provides some competition. The palate of this whiskey is a journey in itself, offering an array of depth, flavours, and variety. The smokiness adds an extra dimension to the port influence, and the balance achieved is impeccable. Its multifaceted nature ensures that with each revisit, you’re likely to discover a new and intriguing note, given its outstanding complexity.

In summary, this trio of Killowens from Brendan is exceptional, but we’ve come to expect nothing less from his craftsmanship and dedication. The word on the street about Brendan planning a high-oat content poitín for Poitín Now is incredibly exciting and sets the bar high once again. Brendan’s relentless pursuit of innovation and excellence is undoubtedly something to look forward to.