I first visited the Holyrood Distillery in Edinburgh back in April 2022. As a distillery, Holyrood had two things going for it: firstly, it was the first operating in Edinburgh in a century. Secondly, it was clear that the approach to whisky making was highly experimental, with no barley strain nor yeast off limits. With Holyrood’s inaugural release, Arrival, having hit the market in late 2023, a return visit to check in was clearly required.

Holyrood’s distillery tour remains a good way to pass an hour if you find yourself in Edinburgh. There has been an increase in price since my last visit: up from £16 to £25, likely due to the added draw of having a whisky on the market. Of course, it does now include an opportunity to sample a dram of Holyrood, in addition to a new-make cocktail on arrival (with seasonal variation; in this case a delightful hot toddy to aid in recovery from the weather) and a taste of their gin. We were hosted very well by Neil, who brought a high level of energy to the experience despite a somewhat silent tour group. Aside from the price, and sample availability, not much has changed: this remains a great distillery tour handily located near the centre of Edinburgh. The opportunity to try a Holyrood whisky does justify the increase in pricing.

My main reason for returning was fulfilled at the end of the tour, with a sample of Holyrood’s Ambir, the third release from the distillery. This is a showcase of the speciality malts that the distillery has been using in its experiments so far. It’s stylishly packaged, with an attractive modern design for the bottle and label. However, it’s what’s inside that really counts.

Holyrood Ambir

Lowland Single Malt Whisky

49.8% ABV, matured in first and second fill bourbon barrels, and Spanish Olorosso butts and hogsheads

No age statement

Non-chill filtered, no added colouring

£64 (Royal Mile Whiskies)

Nose: Rose petal, lemon zest, apple. Sweetness and cereal come through as shortbread, oaty flapjack, golden syrup, and butter fudge.

Palate: There’s toasted cereal, vanilla, Scottish tablet and butter fudge, nougat, butterscotch, and caramel. Some fruit is also present, with red fruits, orange, plum, and elderflower. There’s a building warmth and harshness, testament to the young age of the whisky, with lashings of white pepper.

Finish: A medium finish. Peppery toffee apple.

Opinion: Holyrood’s whisky isn’t quite brilliant yet, but the distillery’s off to a positive start. One key shortfall is easily overcome: the slight harsh edge will be smoothed with a bit more time maturing and is likely not to be a problem with Holyrood releases for long. That harshness, which impacts the spirit’s balance, is my biggest problem with the whisky, especially given the price tag. For an early release, it’s far from unforgivable, but is hopefully not something exhibited by future Holyrood drams.

Ambir is promoted as Holyrood’s “Speciality Malt Experiment”, and a quick look at the mashbill certainly backs up that statement, with seven barley varieties and ten different yeasts featuring in its production. I am a big fan of the way Holyrood list these on their website; this is clearly a distillery that believes in transparency. This variety shows that Holyrood are very much in an experimental phase, enjoying the freedom to try whichever yeast or barley they want, and in any combination. There is no existing flavour profile or style to recreate, nor parent company to keep on side, which provides the perfect opportunity to try new things.

However, this freedom perhaps presents a few problems, as the distillers have to work out what makes a positive difference and what doesn’t. Their three releases so far have attempted to create very different flavour profiles to display the results of all their experimentation, rather than focussing on single elements. This is a direct contrast to the likes of Killowen’s Triail experimental run, which showed us the differences between yeasts in isolation. Holyrood, however, have decided that their initial expressions should try and show everything at once, rather than tease small differences before launching a core range that combines their innovations. I feel they may be in danger of straying too close to the bizarre muddle of a release like the Jura Seven Wood – perhaps they should keep it simple for now instead of trying to do too much too early?

Holyrood Distillery is off to a pretty good start with their Ambir. Once they’ve found their rhythm, and with slightly older spirit on the market, they are sure to be one to watch.

5.5/10